Lovely Kochi

Cochin, better know as Kochi, is in the recent state of Kerala. When Ute, Joshua (two members from our previous tour group), Robby, and myself flew from Delhi to Kochi at 6am we knew that we would be flying to a warmer climate, but we didn't expect to land in a humid jungle populated with palm trees, fresh air, and less traffic. It's like a different world in South India. More so resembling southern Thailand or the Caribbean coast of Guatemala, according to Robby. People are much friendlier here, leaving you alone when you say "no thank you" in regards to buying their trinkets, and it's a more relaxed environment where tourists feel like they have all the time in the world to amble along the coast line, admiring the Indian Ocean, eating an ice cream, and occasionally popping into a shop to browse without fear of upsetting the owner for not buying anything.

Kerala used to be part of another state in India and was run by the Royal family, which was a matriarchal society - kids even took their mother's last names. Eventually Britain took India during some war and put it under British rule. And when India won independence from Britain in the mid 1900's, Kerala filed a separation from the rest of India and formed its own State. To me, the parts of Kerala that I've seen, seem to be a bunch of islands all connected by bridges. We spent two lovely days in Fort Cochin relaxing and enjoying a more stress free and laid back environment.

It was nice to wander along the beach and look at the Chinese fishing boats that support up to 20 families with their monthly catches. Fresh fish (beware of the flies circulating around them) is sold to order in local restaurants and in open air shops, ice cream stands liter the roads (it's about 90 degrees with 50% humidity here - a vast difference from the 50 degrees or lower in Delhi), families flock to the waves and enjoy soaking their clothes because bathing suits are apparently not a thing here, and kites fly high into the sky - some even a 1/2 mile into the blue. I guess after the hassle and bustle and go, go, go of Dehli, Kochi was just what we needed. 

Our new tour group Is comprised of 9 people ranging in ages from 25-63. There are two Brits, three Americans, three Germans, and one Canadian. Everyone is slightly less energetic compared to the previous group, but it could also be because most of them are jet lagged and their true personalities aren't shining through yet. The four of us that came from up North seem to be sticking together a lot. Maybe because we already know each other or maybe because we're willing to venture out of our comfort zones and eat street food and wander into any ole shop. But in Fort Cochin, there is no shortage of tourists. It seems to be a busy hub bub for visitors of all countries. A mini paradise amongst the chaos of normal life.

Our tour guide, Sanjay, took us on a walking tour to see a Portuguese Church that has the tomb of the first Portuguese sailor to step foot on India soil. Kochi has a lot of Dutch and British influence to its buildings and religions, but their are also Portuguese, Jewish, Muslim, and Christian themes throughout. A maudepodgue of cultures. We got to step foot on one of the Chinese fishing rigs, a giant net tied to an "a" frame type wooden structure and then lowered into the water at high tide to catch fish, crabs, baby sharks, and whatever else floats in. The net is lowered with the help of five men pushing up the wooden post and it is pulled out of the water by thick ropes, one of which I got to pull. It was fun, but I don't think I'm considering a career change anytime soon.

We took tuk tuks to Jew Town. I finally found a place that I can use the word "Jew" and not get yelled at for being inappropriate. Even though I'm Jewish, apparently you can't say "Jew" many places, but in Kochi it's ok. A bunch of Jewish immigrants came to India in the 1700's and set up a mini town, hence the name. There were five synagogues, but now there is only one that remains open for services. It is orthodox and caters to 100 people. The temple is beautiful with tons of oil lamps hanging from the ceiling. The men sit on the ground floor while the women go upstairs and pray behind screens.

We meandered through the Jew Town shops, saw a museum, and enjoyed lassies on the waterfront before attending a show about the Kerala fighting style known as Kalaippayattu. Robby and I were the only ones initially interested in seeing the fighting, but we convinced three others to come with us. In a small dojo, we learned how the fighters start their training - mostly by doing a lot of yoga looking exercises, the splits, and high kicks. They are very flexible. Once they've garnered a healthy respect for endurance and strength, they learn the wooden weapons - long stick and short stick. Next, they move onto metal - swords, hand knives that are seriously scary looking, and curved blades. Afterwards they train in hand-to-hand combat. Our demonstrators were three young men whom had trained for 10 years, 7 years, and 2 years. All of them we're well muscled and a little intimidating if you happened to get on their bad sides. 

After the fight show, Sanjay had organized a traditional Kerala dance show to show us all the different styles of dance that are preformed in this state. Most of them involve a lot of over exaggerating of the eyes to convey happy, sad, angry, and 20 other moods. There is also a 24 letter "sign language" the dancers learn and use while they dance out stories pertaining to their gods and life in the villages. I managed to sit through 25 minutes of the show before making a hasty retreat. I'm sure Kathakali is a lovely art form, but watching a guy, who's face is covered in yellow paint (enough to emulate a mask, which I thought it was at first), roll his eyes into the back of his head and then shift them side to side to the beat of an ever increasing drum roll, just about made me throw up. The eye roller was accompanied by a drummer and a mini cymbal clapper that echoed extremely loud. So much for me experiencing new things.

I guess I was semi lucky since I left the show early because apparently there was a story about the Gods that went on 20 mins longer than necessary and all the musicians on the stage looked increasing bored. They must have been thinking "geez, what has my life become? Performing for stupid tourists everyday. If they're bored, imagine how I feel; I've been hitting this drum for five years now." While the rest of my group suffered in silence, I got invited by the Kerala fighters to watch them practice some more. People hitting sticks together in fluid motion is much more entertaining than a guy wiggling his eyes up and down in over exaggeration to convey weird emotions like Valor. And I'm still trying to figure out how Valor is even an emotion. 

Anyhow, my impromptu ditch out sort got me ditched by the group. I guess I wasn't watching the clock all that well and when I exited the Martial Arts studio, the show seemed like it was still going on, but apparently it was a new show and everyone from the dance show had made a mad dsh for the exit. When I asked the ticket guy if the dance show was still going on (I heard music coming from the theater) he said "yes", so I assumed that my tour group was still inside. But, I was wrong. Robby showed up five minutes later and said that everyone left. When they had exited the show they had looked for me everywhere, but the martial arts studio, and assumed I was sick and just went back to the hotel. I do have a lovely cold and what I call the "India Cough" - most everyone here coughs like a frog is trying to escape their throats- but I wouldn't just leave the group behind.

Since Robby had our hotel key and knew I would never just leave without telling her, she came back to look for me after the tour group hopped in tuk tuks to head to dinner. I probably would have waited until the second show let out, seen that no one I knew was in the audience, and then tuk tuked back to the hotel, but I guess it was a good thing Robby came back for me. It was still a little annoying that since I exited the fight studio five minutes after the dance show had ended, everyone had vanished. I guess I'm just glad I knew where I was and how to get back to the hotel. It might have been bad if I hadn't memorized Fort Cochin, having already been here one night. I hope I don't get ditched anywhere else. I guess a note to self "don't be even a minute late, Sanjay won't wait for you."

And so that ends my Kochi adventure. I'm now traveling by train to Some other city and I think I'm going to enjoy the beauty from my window and pray that I don't get train sick as I'm seated backwards. Until next time, go do something adventurous and I was try not to get lost. :)